I think you should go to Lisbon
Swear I haven't been sponsored by Lisbon's tourist board.
On January 1st, I rolled out of bed, kissed my boyfriend, and let him sleep off the hangover. I walked outside, got to a quiosque, and ordered a €1.5 mint tea and a €3 tosta mista. Champagne corks were on the floor, and people were surfing. A man next to me had a still-moving octopus attached to his waist. He had just come back from spearfishing.
I lived here for almost three years, so I know how nice this city is. But it felt like medicine to spend every waking moment of the next few days outside. Napping in the sun, in my swimsuit. Enjoying the Ministry of Time, and not enjoying the Wedding People. Eating clams and grilled fish, on long tables, under the sun, while my sister ordered another round of imperial.
And look, it was wonderful. And I want you to go and eat clams under the winter sun too. So this guide is for that. And for better (or for worse) it will not include a single place that sells a good oat-milk flat-white.
Praia da Ursa hike. Saw two people there, two dots running towards the sea. Butt-naked. Screaming from the shock of the cold. January 2nd. No one at the beach but them. Incredible! This place is so grand in its beauty. And you see the peak of the cliff before you see the whole thing—a preview before the whole scene opens in front of you. Nature is a very good director. I know I don’t shy away from hyperboles, but this place is insane.
Logistics-wise, drive to Cabo (or get the train to Cascais + a taxi to Cabo), and skip Cabo. Just walk along the tiny trails towards Ursa, and beyond. Go on a non-windy day cause otherwise, it’s not fun at all. And don’t you dare litter.
Seaside walk from Praia da Azarujinha to Cascais. My friend Rachel showed me this walk a few years ago. Not only that, Rachel is an avid runner (this lungomare is great for running), but her biggest talent is finding sun-trap nooks where you can sunbathe in January. Come here on a sunny day, no matter the season. Bring beach towels, sun cream, books, fruit, and a swimsuit underneath your clothes. Chill for a couple of hours, then grab an imperial at one of the nearby bars. Bring a jumper for later when it gets chilly. One of the most wonderful Lisbon feelings is wearing a jumper over a swimsuit, during sunset, after a day at the beach.
Adamastor on Praia da Parede. It’s literally on the water. Sea mist is practically hitting your cheeks (but in a good way) while you’re drinking wine. There’s no other way to describe it. It’s so magical, and local, that not a lot of people know about it (so don’t go tagging on Insta, please), and it’s undeniably stunning. Go during golden hour.
Bike ride from Cascais to Guincho. Go on a non-windy day. Rent a bike in Cascais, it’s 8km one way. Walk around Guincho, Arriba, Crismina. Have prawns, shrimps, and Super Bock at Bar do Guincho, or if you’re feeling fancy, Furnas do Guincho. You’ll be outside the whole day, close to the ocean, stopping for beers, eating seafood, and looking at surfers dotted on the horizon. I came here in 2016 during my first Lisbon trip, and also with my boyfriend before he was my boyfriend. So yes, I really, really like it here a lot.
Group dinner at Ramiro. Iconic and known for unreal service and quality. The second you finish an imperial, you get another one. They just keep bringing them. The same goes for bread. The food is no-fuss, salted, and grilled, no oil, no butter. If you love seafood and loud rooms, this is it. Book in advance.
I know seafood menus can be intimidating, so Marta, our resident Lisboeta (and my best pal!), is here to tell you exactly what you should get.
Gamba do Algarve: super fresh warm prawns with loads of salt.
Gamba especial: this one is an off-the-menu secret.
Carabineiro: worth every penny.
Precebes: weird-prehistoric-looking things, but so fresh.
Santola: huge crab, and they turn the flesh into a sauce, and you got to smash the legs with your own little hammer.
Prego for ‘dessert’: The only meat on the menu. Don’t skip the mustard!
Sgropinno: they are known for it.
Quiosque do Adamastor at Miradouro de Santa Catarina. Quiosques are small outdoor bars/cafés that are scattered all around Lisbon. They are easy, local, and reliable. And they aren’t trying to be anything, they just are. I also lived close to the ones along Avenida de Liberdade which are in a thick shade, so if you’re stuck in Lisbon during a sweaty July day, go there. The one at Jardim de Estrela is also good. Estrela in general is lovely and great for an evening picnic. You should add that to your list.
Príncipe Real market on a Saturday morning. I think traveling is all about pretending you live there. So if you have an Airbnb, with a kitchen, go do your groceries. The market at Príncipe Real has an amazing classic quiosque just next to it, under an enormous tree. So you’ll do groceries and coffee on a Saturday morning—which is wonderful.
Pizza at Lupita. Yes, the lines are long, and usually, I’m anti-lines, but go there late, like 10 p.m., and you’ll be fine. My friend Alison and I used to come here for dinner during the summer months and sit outside. And honestly, it’s an exceptional pizza. They also have very cool merch (that long-sleeve tee) and very, very good ceilings.
Shopping-wise! For the men in your life, go to the Lisbon brand Ementa. They have a skater/surfer cupid as their logo, and their staff is incredibly kind. My boyfriend got some stunning long-sleeve tees, and they also have thick tank tops for girls. Cerâmicas na Linha is a classic, must-stop-shop for all you ceramics lovers. I bought an espresso set there that looks like little shells, and they still have it in stock. Depósito Da Marinha Grande is a must for affordable, high-quality, hand-blown glassware. All my glassware and ceramics are from these two shops. They pack it all up super well.
Group dinner at Toma Lá Dá Cá. Tascas are classic Portuguese no-frills grilled meat/fish restaurants. So whenever you’re somewhere in Portugal, and you want to have a nice, cheap meal, search for a tasca. This is my favourite one. Get the €12.50 grilled dourada. Go in a group. Book in advance.
Skip the brunch spots and have a croissant mista at a local bakery, padaria/pastelaria. My favourite ones are Patriarcal in Principe Real, Lénita in Santos, and Emenda in Chiado, but I also love Padaria do Bairro (not A Padaria Portuguesa haha). If you love sweet stuff, go for Pão de Deus, my sister’s favorite.
Arguably the most trendy spot on this list, but go for dinner at Da Noi with your girlfriends or partner. Although, I think the best part of Da Noi is standing outside drinking wine and chatting while you wait for your table.
I adore Panda Cantina for a lazy dinner. And even though they now have multiple locations around Lisbon, their quality is consistent. This used to be my once-a-week spot, and now it doesn’t feel like a proper visit to Lisbon if we don’t go to Panda. Avoid the Baixa location (long lines), and be careful with the spice levels. I am spice level 2.5. They also have homemade lemon mochi.
On the topic of trendiness… If you’re desperate for a sexy, cosmopolitan spot, go to the Rua da Boavista street. There are so many cool, new bars and restaurants there, and to be honest, they are not quintessentially Portuguese, but sometimes all people want is a negroni and some shared small plates. And looks, I get it! If you’re in that mood, go to Cosmo for a drink, and Fares for a simple Middle Eastern dinner. They are part of the same family, and they genuinely always have the loveliest staff. Also, I’m sorry to say, but I’m about to throw some shade… but don’t go to Baz. Yes, it’s cool and trendy, but as Dua Lipa says, training season is over. Plus, their tiramisu sucks. Sorry!
Book a sunset sail. It’s a great thing to do in a group. It’s actually not too pricy, and there are also a lot of providers. Plus they give you a lot of wine. Also, bring a sweater, cause it’s always colder on a boat than what you think.
Finally, if you’re lacking some routine and just want a moment to yourself, I love Baraza Yoga in Santos. Again, very Lululemon-mom recommendation of me, but it’s really relaxing, and the studio smells really nice haha. And they always accept drop-ins.
Okay, that’s it pals. Now, go book your ticket to Lisbon. See you next week! L.
Couldn’t describe the vibe of living the portuguese life better! Love it
the ramiro menu is also a 10/10–you go Marta