25 niche rules of the Croatian summer (or any Euro summer)
How to have a perfect day and feel like a local.
Wake up early and get out of the house first thing in the morning. And I don’t mean you should go for a run or work out (you, actually, shouldn’t do that), but what I mean is that by 9 am, most locals in a coastal Croatian town have already (1) had their macchiato at a local café, (2) gone to the farmer’s market (pijaca), (3) gone swimming, and (4) gone to the post office. I don’t know why they went to the post office, but they went. In conclusion, there is just no such thing as sleeping in Croatia. My grandparents scream my name if I have not woken up by 8:30. It’s because the sun rises early, the light is still golden, and people want to use up those cool, fresh, dewy hours before the heat sinks in. And it’s a wonderful and fulfilling habit. If I’m working remotely from Croatia, I go for a 7 am swim with my mum. We shower at the beach, have coffee in the village, and breakfast at home. I put on some clothes, and at 9 am, I am ready to have my first meeting. It’s the best kind of productivity. One that fuels your soul, and not just your brain or your wallet.
If you can get on a boat, get on a boat. No discussion.
Every evening, you must (simply must) go out for a little walk, drink, and/or an ice cream. Italians have their passeggiata, Croatians have their život. This is the time to show your face a bit, to chat, and to see who’s in town. My grandparents share a courtyard with a few neighbours, and every night my sister and I walk out, the whole yard does a little appreciation round for our dresses. It’s sweet. It’s a bookend to my day. I never feel FOMO, but if I don’t do this, I truly feel lost.
No reserving beach spots with beach towels. Honestly, jail.
Don’t judge the restaurant by the interior (or exterior) decor. Haha, listen, I just don’t think we are the furnishing connoisseurs of Europe. I have a theory that beautiful interiors stem mostly from regions within rainy climates. ‘Cause if you spend a lot of time indoors, you want to make it nice. If you don’t, you don’t.
Speedos are cool!
Ideally, no beach between 12 pm and 3 pm. Most beaches start clearing out around 11:45 am. The sun is just way too strong midday, and people want to go home and have lunch with their families, then come back around 3:30 pm. I have said this before, but I am at my happiest in that post-beach, post-lunch, post-shower bliss of lying on my bed underneath the AC, in a fresh cotton tank top, lathered in after-sun lotion, with my grandparents snoozing in the next room, and with my boyfriend reading next to me. And window shutters lightly open so I can still hear the town buzzing, and get some light in, but keep the heat out. That is what those midday hours are meant for.
Every time you see a kid selling seashells, you have to buy something. Obviously, this was my first "job". My sister and I would go snorkelling close to seafood restaurants ‘cause they would drop their leftover shells there, and that’s how we’d get our stock for the week. Every evening we’d pick a spot in town, and place the shells on carton boxes. Our hair still wet from the post-beach shower. We’d change locations to test the highest frequencies. We’d add little price tags and make beaded bracelets and earrings to expand our offer. It was so nice. We were 6, 7, and we’d do this every night all summer. Then our mum would come and we’d immediately get embarrassed. We’re working!! I still remember one night we had the ‘buy one, get one’ promo, and made €10. Rich. But in 2003, that’s a lot of money for a 7-year-old.
It’s called the sea. Not the ocean, and definitely not the water.
If you speak a bit of Croatian, you’ll likely get a discount. It’s true. Most cafés, restaurants, and shops have a tourist price and a local price, and even the tiniest bit of Croatian helps you earn that 25% off. Now listen and learn, fun informal phrases that charm everyone are: pomalo (take it easy), jako fino (very delicious), and može (an informal version of yes). Once, after a fancy dinner with tiny portions, my boyfriend wanted to say to the waiter jako fino (very delicious), but he said jako malo (very little). Haha. So watch out.
No complaining that the beach is not sandy! We’re sorry, haha. I know that this is a pain point (literally) for a lot of people. But look, the sea is clear, the beer is cold, and it’s fine. It’s fineeee.
Sunsets need to be spent at high vantage points, looking at nearby islands, peaks, mountains, boats, and valleys. This is a spiritual experience, I believe.
Window seat always. Flying above all the islands is magical. Also, try to book the flight with a landing time around the golden hour. Worth it!
Farmers’ markets are a religion. They open early and close early. They got quite expensive, though, but in the peak of summer, with the abundance of produce, the prices go down. You should buy figs, tomatoes, watermelons, locally salted anchovies, capers, small zucchinis (the smaller, the better), aubergine, apricots, and peaches. For example, in Amsterdam, figs are sold per piece (I love Ams, but this specific fact is the misery of my life), and every time someone in Amsterdam eats figs, it’s like uuuuu fancy. In Croatia, you get a kilo of figs for €3–€4, and most of the time you can pick them from trees (sometimes bees are inside, so check!).
Eat fish or seafood always, but especially on Fridays. Originally a catholic tradition, but now just a weekly habit. And almost all restaurants build their Friday menu around it. I don’t think it’s necessarily disrespectful to order a steak on Fridays, but it’s not ideal. Also buy fish at the fishmongers, or sometimes at fishing boats that dock at sunset / morning. Also, ask them to clean the fish for you.
The perfect evening drink is a white wine spritz (gemišt). The perfect coffee drink is a macchiato. There are, sadly, no flat whites in Croatia.
South Europeans love babies. They will want to hold yours. When will you get married, and when will you have a baby, are constant questions everyone asks — from my neighbour to my seamstress. She asked me today! She specifically asked: What on Earth am I waiting for? I said I am 29. Still plenty of time. She said I could’ve had a 12-year-old child by now. I said that that is impossible ‘cause I am 22. I digress. But, they just love them. Passersby will gladly coo at your newborn, ask how old they are, and waiters will hold your baby while you eat. There was an American woman with a newborn sitting next to me on a plane to Zagreb. I had the middle seat, and a Croatian woman on the other side said to me: You’re sitting next to a little angel. I think of that interaction every time someone rolls their eyes cause a baby is sitting next to them.
No beach tents. I was recently on a tiny beach where maybe 5 families can fit comfortably. A group of three tourists arrived and placed a 3x4 tent in the centre of it. Honestly…
Close all the windows between 10 am and 6 pm. I know you’re hot, and you want to get the breeze in, but there is no breeze outside. Close the windows, put the AC on, and keep the cold air in.
Swim with jewellery but without rings. This is not a Croatian rule, just a swimming rule. I have seen too many people lose their engagement, wedding, and heirloom rings.
No SPF on white sheets. It stains!
If you have time, take the slower, bigger ferry. The one for the cars. Get the seat on the top deck. Buy beers and crisps in a little bistro, and just have a blast. I recommend this only for ferries after 4 pm. I did it once at 11 am, and no amount of sunblock was enough to protect me.
Carry-on only. I’m preparing a very detailed article about this, but for me, a true Euro summer can’t exist in a check-in bag. Euro summer is easy, low-key, and chill. And a check-in bag is not. Also, don’t overthink your outfits. Pareos, flip-flops, linen dresses, and sandals are enough. And if you feel like booking a check-in bag, just think of the noise your big suitcase would cause on town cobblestones at 7 am.
Don’t squeeze your nose when jumping into the sea. Eeeek sorry, my pet peeve. But just keep your mouth closed while underwater, and keep exhaling through your nose. That’s it. So elegant, so local.
And no beach shoes!
That’s it, pals! Hope you liked it. If you did, the best way to support me is to tell a friend about Cafe Léyo. Or leave a comment! I love your comments. This truly helps me keep motivated and get to new readers. Thank you for your sweet words. Lots of love, L.
“And no beach shoes!” Is now my euro summer motto ❤️😅
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